First Steps

This section details the mods that were made prior to my decision to set up a blog about them.

Engine Hangers

I have no idea what is suitable to call them.  They look like mounting lugs for somebody to hook onto in case they wanted to remove the engine.  There’s two of them, held by an M8 screw.  So if you look at the picture below, its devoid of those.  I can imagine they are places where the Fire Rescue Department could latch their hydraulic jaws to pull the engine away in the event of a crash.
Intake Snorkel

This should be the first thing that any CPS engined Proton must do.  Replace the intake snorkel with the ones coming of an ’06 Neo.  It is not necessary to replace the whole set.  The most important part is the larger front piece.  The newer snorkel is corrugated and has a bigger and different located resonator box.  This new design helps in reducing the sound level of the engine.  One of the chief complaints of pedestrians-turned-driver is the din coming from inside the cockpit from a high revving DOHC engine.  Duhhh!! So I guess Proton decided that a change of the snorkel was appropriate.  But they awarded the contract to UMW Automotive.  The same people that gave us Toyotas!  So I went for the replacement unit taken new from spare parts warehouse.  I could have sourced for a junk parts but it would have taken too much time.  I have also made a hole for air to come in through the front grille.  The material is FRP and its easy to cut with a dremel.  You can compare this picture to the one below this piece.  You can see the difference in size.  What you cannot see is the restrictive neck of the original intake.  I could insert my hand up to my wrist with the new-old one.

I did need to do some modification to the interface with the Airbox.  When initially mounted, the snorkel would be parrallel to the ground.  I needed it to be at an angle.  So I roughly drilled on the Airbox interface.  I plugged the New-Old snorkel and it fits snugly.

This mod does not do anything about increase in horsepower or torque.  It does reduce engine response to throttle and reduce fuel consumption by as much as 15%.

Wiper Motor Mounting Plate

When I had opened the bonnet of the car, the first item that caught my eye was the ungainly sight of several components.  Chief amongst them was the Wiper Motor mounting plate.  Next was the bonnet hinges themselves.  Main culprit was there was too much metal.  This means too much weight not being used.  It does not seemed that it was correctly done.  After going through all my thoughts it finally dawned on me;  the more processes there is in making a com

Initial layout

ponent; the more costs goes into the product.  This opened up ideas for things that can be done.  So with a Black and Decker drill, 18mm dia and 22mm hole cutters, I set about to have a go at it.

Removal of the Wiper Motor mounting requires access to the four mounting bolts. These are M6 bolts surrounded by rubber grommets.  I had to remove the fascia that lies below the front windscreen.  It has four (4) nos. of plastic retainer clips.  These fasteners has a recess for Philip screwdrivers.  I had to pull out the covers (one at each side) to gain access to two of these fasteners.  The others are accessible once you have the bonnet up.

Once the top layer has been removed, you have access to the pit for the gear linkage.  You will see the gear drive is connected to a short lever that is connected to the main linkages.  Simply pop the linkage that is connected to a ball joint on the lever using a flat screwdriver.  You then can remove the 4 Nos. of M6 bolts from the inside of the engine bay.  Remove the Wiper Motor Assembly. Wiper Motor Assembly  I had a look on the surface area and chose to do the bigger ones first.  If you look at the mounting plate, it has been pressed and you can see valleys made by a press machine.  These increase the stiffness and rigidity of the plate against torque from the reduction gear.  Whereas the rubber holders for the mounting holes provide damping against vibration, therefore securing the assembly to the firewall.

Additional areas can be removed without sacrificing the effectiveness of the unit.

Wiper Arms

The wiper arm is to me the only esthetic mod that I have done.  Its not really functional but more for look.  These were extracted from the pinion.  Each were secured by an M8 nut and suitable washer.  You will need to remove the plastic cover before getting access to the nuts themselves.  Once the nut is removed, you will need to rock the wiper arms to and fro to remove it.  The arm itself has two parts, the metal arm and the allow elbow.  The elbow is the part that is directly connected to the drive pinion.  I chose to concentrate on the metal pWiper 2art.  I was inspired by my boss’s BMW 525i which had cut outs on the wiper arm.  I think there were 5 slots.  Since this is an R3, I decided 3 holes were more apt.  But I also did two holes at each side of the arm.  I used a 6mm drill bit for 5 Nos. of the pilot holes and enlarged them with a dremel or also known as a rotary cutter.  Repeat on other arm.  Lastly I had to deburr the pieces, sandpapered it and respray with flat black spray.  I let it dry for 2 hours before fitting them back in.

Reservoir Mounting

This is by far my favourite mod.  I love it for the sheer amount of metal that I could remove and the ease of removal and installation.  It sits on the right side of the car just behind the front light.  It is mounted to the left wall with two M6 nuts.

If you have a look at it, the are lots of areas to drill, cut and get rid off.  I went a bit too far with this and even drilled the part below the vertical holder.  I think you can do almost everywhere with the exception of the two points where the plates are spot welded together.  You can see the spot welds in the picture.

Filter Housing Mounting

One of the bugs with the Neo R3 is that the Housing is big and does not sit nicely on the Intake Runner Manifold.  I tried to do mods to the rubber bush to get a lower profile.  Hours spent and I could not get it to sit down properly.  This leads to the constant rubbing of the housing against a plastic fastener on the bottom of the bonnet.  This housing sits on a metal piece that holds the two rubber bushes.  I merely add 2 Nos. of M18 holes and drilled using carbide bit at various points.  I could cut off a piece where it was supposed to hold a cable.

Battery Holder

Battery Tray

A total of 9 big M22 holes were done. Also are smaller M5 holes drillled,

The battery holder maintains the position of the DIN45 battery.  It is made out of thin sheet metal press formed to accommodate even larger batteries.  It has a bent plate that is secured by an M8 bolt to make sure it stays there.  This is another enjoyable

modification.  Its not so much the weight per hole but the huge number of holes that could be made.


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